Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is 6189m high and is one of the most popular peaks to climb in the Everest Region. This is because it is easily accessible and not as difficult as other climbing peaks. The name Island Peak was given by Eric Shipton´s party in 1951 because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. The peak was afterward renamed in 1983 to Imja Tse but for many, the name Island Peak has stuck. Island Peak was first climbed by a team of mountaineers that included Tensing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, as preparation and acclimatization for the first ascent of Everest in 1953.Island peak is labeled a “trekking peak,” a designation originally applied by the Nepalese authorities to mountains that were felt to be accessible without the logistics of a major expedition and didn’t require an extensive knowledge of winter alpine skills.Although most“trekking peaks” can be climbed in just one or two days from a trailhead, their technical difficulties and dangers very greatly.

For Island Peak Climbing, we have the option of starting from the Base Camp at 5,087 meters called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Theother option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 meters to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, worries of bringing enough water supply as well sleeping at a higher elevation may require us to start from base camp. Base camp to High Camp is a hike but just above High Camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and continues up to a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes will be set up by our mountain guide for the ascent of almost 100 meters to the summit ridge. This climb is somewhat difficult due to the steepness; however it is well worth it. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometers away to the north, the view will be blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300m above the summit.
Still, the experience provides arush for beginners and experts. No technical mountaineering experience is necessary to climb Island Peak, simply a high level of fitness the desire to make it to the peak.

The best times for Island Peak Climbing are during Spring and Autumn.  Ascent Holidays arranges the climb with complete management, including TIMS card. Please, feel free to contact us for the detailed information.